York on a Fork 2

York’s Diverse Dining: From Michelin Star to Street Food

York on a Fork 2 is a round-up of some of my favourite eateries in York and a rewrite of the much-loved York on a Fork article published in Welcome to Yorkshire magazine in 2020. At the time, I took a terrible battering on social media for using the title, though it wasn’t me who chose it, but the then editor. Amid the insults hurled at me, they said the phrase belonged to someone else. I have since heard from many who used it long before that former article or the person who claims it is his. So, I make no apologies for using it again.

The City of York continues to lead the way when it comes to eating in Yorkshire. I am particularly proud of the independents who bring such wonderful diversity to the eating-out scene. I can still remember the time, not that long ago, when I would cringe if ever asked to recommend a place to eat in York. Yes, there were a small handful of places I would suggest. Otherwise, I would direct them out of the city centre.  My, how that has now changed with York regularly appearing on lists of the best places to eat in the UK.

SKOSH

 Skosh on Micklegate still leads the way for me. Back in 2016, when Skosh opened, the street was on the cusp of change, moving away from the weekend onslaught of hen and stag parties down “the Micklegate Run” as it was known. Events and economies over the past 8 years have also added to that change, but thankfully, for the betterment of this lovely corner of York. Micklegate is now known as the place to find independent restaurants and great food. You can read my latest review of his newly expanded restaurant here.

Skosh Review

© Skosh

The Star in the City

Lauded by many as the opening of the year in Yorkshire, The Star in the City in  York hit the ground running back in 2013 and continues to thrill now. The then-new venture from Chef Andrew Pern was always going to attract a lot of attention based simply on the reputation of The Star at Harome and Andrew’s outstanding talent in the kitchen. He is one of the best chefs in the county. The Star in the City is, however, a different beast to Harome

The sensational renovation of the old engine house by the river is arguably one of the most desirable locations in York, smack bang next to the river and tucked up to the Museum Gardens. Cleverly, the older building seamlessly merges with the steel and glass pile housing the Garden Room, the main part of the new restaurant. There’s the cosy River Room for lighter food and a private dining room upstairs. The large outside terrace with those views will be fabulous on a sunny day.

Read my last review of The Star in the City

The York Minster Rectory

Then, in the Spring of 2023, His Majesty King Charles and Queen Camilla opened Pern’s newest addition to York, The York Minster Refectory just a few weeks ahead of the Coronation. This latest addition to the flourishing food scene in York is unique in its location within the Precinct of York Minster and has a remarkable history. The 1830s building was initially built for St Peter’s School and housed the famous Minster School founded in 1903 for educating choristers which sadly closed in 2020. 

. The views of the Minster from here are epic, and I seriously cannot think of a restaurant with such a commanding view; for that, it is worth a visit, plus the food, of course, but more of that later on. 

You can read more about my thoughts on the Minster Refectory from my Yorkshire Post Review here.

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© Elaine Lemm

Roots

Roots brought the city its first Michelin Star and is the second restaurant of the Michelin-starred Black Swan at Oldstead. Chef Tommy Banks takes care of the food, his big brother James, the drinks. Following their huge success, I asked James why York. “We had been thinking about creating a second restaurant that could showcase our Oldstead produce. There seems to be a really exciting vibrant food scene in York right now with more genuinely interesting restaurants than ever. It is a pleasure for Roots to be a part of it!”

And So Much More

But it is not just these award-winning eateries making York what it is today; they are only part of the story. For variety and impressive standards, York now takes some beating. From the vibrant and eclectic mix of the street food, the tiniest of cafés, to the renowned Bettys Tea Rooms; the illustrious The Ivy choosing York to make its first move outside of London and even the famous York Food Festival showcasing all that the city has to offer in food and drink in an exciting 10-day event.

Other favourites are Café No 8 on Gillygate. Twenty years ago, chef and co-owner of No 8 Chris Pragnell opened for business, with business partner Martin Gore arriving two years later. And something is working, as together, with just a small handful of staff, here they still are in 2024. Not for one minute do I imagine it could have been easy; they have been operating in some turbulent times. I reviewed them back in 2022 and now have it on my list of favourites in the city when recommending places to eat.

You will be hard-pressed to get a table at Mannion and Co. on Blake Street. It may be many years since I reviewed Andy Burton’s first Mannions ( there are now three: York, Easingwold, and Helmsley). I visit each of them regularly to get to know them, and in the 13 years since he opened in York, they are still great.

Quite new to the food scene and with a great approach is Pastelle, an events and catering company run by chef Nicole Fielding with ticketed events nights in a small – and beautifully formed – lock up on the outskirts of the city and in pop-up venues. Their food is bright, plentiful, and so delicious. I have now been to three events and thoroughly enjoyed each one. Get on the newsletter list as tickets sell out fast.  

York on a Fork 2 – a few others I highly recommend.

For Street Food, the place to go is behind Marks and Spencer. It’s great for food on the go. We often go for grab-and-go. There are all sorts, and behind it is the Shambles, always worth a quick visit.

Spark, just down from Parliament Square, is a constantly changing dynamic project that has been around for a few years now. Some said it wouldn’t last, but it’s worth a visit. Again, it’s casual and housed in shipping containers.

Middle Feast: Stop off for a quick Lebanese wrap on the go. On a nice day, take them to Museum Gardens nearby.

Pairings Wine Bar I’ve spent far too many nights here eating delicious platters of food with excellent wine matches. It’s very relaxed and fun, and sharing plates of food is one of my favourite ways to eat.

Fish and Forest: I love this guy! I am so proud of what Stephen has achieved. It all started at Spark (above), where he had a pop-up. He has worked his socks off to get where he is now and flourished in his delightful indie restaurant, which emphasises sustainability.

Yet more great food coming soon from Stephen when he opens a new Fish and Forest.

For brunch/café food

You will be hard-pressed to get a table at Mannion and Co on Blake Street. It may be many years since I reviewed Andy Burton’s first Mannions ( there are now three: York, Easingwold, and Helmsley). I visit each of them regularly to get to know them, and in the 13 years since he opened in York, they are still great.

The Pig and Pastry, so popular it is known locally as the “Pig” (brunch a must)

The Pig is on Bishy Road (Bishopthorpe Road), a short walk from the centre. Brunch a must. You can’t book, but you can queue and be prepared to share a table. If you can’t get in Robinsons, a few doors down is super too. Or head back to Micklegate and try Partisan.

Here are a couple of pubs (there are 500 in York, so I’m sorry if I don’t list them all).

The House of Trembling Madness on Stonegate (not the newer one on Lendal) is a must for the age, quirkiness, great ales and humungous platters of food, which how they create without a kitchen is remarkable. Don’t miss the stuffed animals on the wall.

A little way on the other side of Museum Gardens is the Minster Inn, which only serves pizza. It’s great. Read my review.

There’s ‘small plates’ dining through to impressive tasting menus stacked with innovation and creativity from across the globe. And with rafts of pubs from the quirky and haunted to the trendiest of bars serving good food, it is now safe to say that York has it all, and for that, we must thank the independent operators who took a risk with York: one which thankfully seems to have paid off.

GETTING THERE:

York is one of the most easily accessible cities in the UK and is ideally positioned in the heart of the country. Direct rail links bring you from London, Edinburgh, and Manchester in around two hours. You can get to York on half-hourly high-speed trains from London.

York Minster
© Elaine Lemm

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