Usually, I measure the appropriate time between revisiting a review in years rather than months. In what has to be a first for me, I was back at Horto at Rudding Park in less than 12 months. Why so soon? Because last year I ended my review with the future of Horto hanging in the balance, wondering if the then temporary pop-up over the golf shop would become permanent.I for one wished it would as this was a seriously great restaurant and for it to disappear would have been a huge loss for the county.
Happily, it has not only continued but has relocated into the recently opened (and utterly stunning) multi-million-pound spa at the hotel. What a smart move on the part of Rudding this is, as Horto gets a glamorous home and the short walk past the spa reception to Horto’s door affords seriously tempting glimpses of the pampering atmosphere on offer. Plus, the place is dual-purposed as by day the menu serves worthy, squeakily healthy and no doubt delicious (I have yet to try it) food befitting the spa guests. But, by night it is all change as the kitchen switches back into the hands of talented chef Murray Wilson and his team.one coming.
Horto, Rudding Park Hotel, Follifoot, Harrogate HG3 1JH. 01423 871350. Open seven days a week. Tasting menu, £63 per person.